Emergency & Breakdown Recovery
24-hour roadside callout when the car has stopped and you need someone now.
Read moreServices
Eleven things we are called out for most, all carried out where your car is parked. Emergency callouts and non-starts are the bulk of our work — but we also service, brake, belt, diagnose and repair bodywork on driveways across Blackwood and South Wales.
Open 24 hours — evenings and weekends included.
At a glance
24-hour roadside callout when the car has stopped and you need someone now.
Read moreNon-starts, flat batteries, dead starters and charging faults.
Read moreFault codes read and interpreted — then actually tested.
Read moreFull and interim servicing on your driveway while you get on with your day.
Read moreGrinding, squealing, spongy pedal or a car that pulls under braking.
Read moreSlipping, juddering, a heavy pedal or a rattling dual-mass flywheel.
Read moreChanged to the manufacturer interval, with the tensioner and water pump.
Read moreBelt-in-oil changes on EcoBoost, EcoBlue and PureTech engines.
Read moreKnocks, clonks, uneven tyre wear and steering that doesn't feel right.
Read moreBatteries, alternators, starters and electrical faults.
Read moreScratch, dent and rust removal.
Read more24-hour roadside callout when the car has stopped and you need someone now.
You break down, you ring, we come out. Day, night, weekend — the phone is answered around the clock. We work at the roadside, in a car park or on your driveway, and in most cases we diagnose and repair on the spot rather than dragging the car to a garage and waiting days for a slot. Where a repair isn't possible on site, we can also arrange recovery to get you and the car somewhere safe.
Non-starts, flat batteries, dead starters and charging faults.
One of the most common calls we get. A car that won't start is nearly always one of a handful of things: a flat or failed battery, a dying alternator that never charged it, a worn starter motor, a fuel delivery fault or an immobiliser that isn't seeing the key. We test the charging and starting circuit properly before replacing anything, so you don't pay for a battery when the alternator was the problem.
Advanced fault-code reading, interpreted and then actually tested.
A warning light on the dashboard is a starting point, not an answer. We plug in, read the fault codes across engine, ABS, airbag and other systems, then test the components behind the code rather than swapping parts on a hunch. That's what stops a simple sensor fault turning into an expensive parts-cannon repair.
Full and interim servicing on your driveway while you get on with your day.
Interim and full services are carried out on your driveway, in your parking space or at your workplace. That covers engine oil and filter, air, fuel and pollen filters, a full fluid and safety check, and a stamp in the service book. We take the old oil and filters away for proper disposal, and use quality parts throughout.
Grinding, squealing, spongy pedal or a car that pulls under braking.
Front and rear brakes, handbrakes, discs, pads and fluid — all carried out at your home. A grinding noise usually means the pads have worn through to the metal backing; a spongy pedal often points to air or moisture in the fluid. We check the whole system rather than just fitting new pads, because a warped disc or a seized caliper will wear a new set out again in weeks.
Slipping, juddering, a heavy pedal or a biting point that has crept to the top of its travel.
A clutch wears gradually, so it is easy to miss until it is obvious. The classic sign is slipping — the revs climb but the car doesn't gain speed to match, usually in a high gear going uphill. A judder as you pull away or a burning smell after a hill start belong to the same picture.
On most cars of the last twenty years the clutch runs against a dual-mass flywheel, and that gets assessed at the same time. Bolting a new clutch to a worn flywheel is the commonest way to end up paying for the same gearbox-out job twice, so we check it while it is exposed and tell you what we find.
Changed to the manufacturer's interval — not left until it lets go.
On an interference engine, which is most of them, the timing belt is the only thing keeping the valves and the pistons out of each other's way. If it snaps you are looking at a cylinder head rebuild or a new engine on a car that was running perfectly ten seconds earlier.
The interval is a mileage and a time limit, whichever comes first — and the time half is the one people miss, because a belt perishes with age even on a car that barely gets driven. Belt, tensioner, idlers and the water pump go in as a set, with the engine locked at TDC using the proper tools.
The belt that runs inside the engine, in the oil — and takes the engine with it when it fails.
Wet belts are fitted to a lot of very ordinary cars: the Ford 1.0 EcoBoost, the Ford 1.5 and 1.6 EcoBlue diesels, and the 1.2 PureTech petrol used across Peugeot, Citroën, DS, Vauxhall and Opel. Rather than snapping cleanly, an ageing wet belt sheds material into the sump.
That debris blocks the oil pickup strainer, oil pressure collapses and the engine destroys itself from the bearings outward. So the belt alone isn't the job — the sump comes off, the pickup is cleaned or replaced, and the engine gets fresh oil to the exact specification it needs.
Knocks, clonks, uneven tyre wear and steering that doesn't feel right.
Struts, springs, bushes and the wider steering system — the pot-holed roads across the valleys are hard on all of it. A knock over bumps is usually a worn anti-roll bar link or a failing strut top mount; a car that pulls to one side or wanders at speed often points to worn track rod ends or bushes. We identify the actual worn component rather than replacing everything at once.
Batteries, alternators, starters and electrical faults.
A full electrical system check-up covering the battery, alternator, starter motor, fuses and wiring. Modern cars carry a lot of electronics, so an intermittent fault — a window that sometimes works, a warning light that comes and goes — is usually traced with proper testing equipment rather than guessed at. We also handle straightforward jobs like battery and bulb replacement at the roadside.
Scratch, dent and rust removal.
Alongside the mechanical side of the business, we carry out scratch, dent and rust repairs — so a car park scrape or a patch of kerb rash doesn't need a separate bodyshop booking. Tell us what's happened and, where we can, we'll give you an honest idea of cost and whether it's a job for your driveway or one better suited to a workshop visit.
Ring and describe what's wrong — we'll tell you honestly what it sounds like and what it costs before anything is booked.